Where the Khan lived Hunza

 

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Baltit, the capital of Hunza

The city came to be called Karimabad from Prince Karim, the present Aga Khan.

Facts F History

Diary F People

There many question marks about the people of Hunza. Keays summarises them as follows: "Blue eyes, fair skins and blonde or reddish hair were said to be commonplace amongst all the Dards. With feature that were nothing if not European, was it possible that here were the long lost descendants of the Greeks who had crossed Asia with Alexander the Great? Or, since even Alexander's day there were reports of a similar people, were they perhaps remnants of the original Aryan race from which all the Indo-European peoples were descended? And was there perhaps substance in the myths that placed the garden of Eden somewhere in the valleys of the Hindu Kush?" G. W. Leitner in 1830 said that "I do not palliate the old Hunza Practice of lending one's wife to a guest or of kidnapping good looking strangers in order to improve the race." Puzzling, isn't it?

The origins of the separate Hunza and Nagar Kingdoms are obscured by legend, but they are probably offshoots of Gilgit's Trakhan dynasty. From a marriage of royal cousins of that dynasty in the 15th century came twin sons, Maglot and Girkis, later to become the rulers, respectively, of Nagar and Hunza. From infancy, so the story goes, the little princes had a mutual hatred, and as kings they led their people into frequent bloody battles with one antoher.

Baltit Fort (details), a potent symbol of Hunza's history and idendity.

 

[21 Aug. couvert Baltit Hotel Hunza]

Golden Mountain (7400m), Hopper Mountain et son glacier, Castle Min-Khan (Baltit Fort)

Ermite dans la chambre du fond, sans doute pour écrire un livre. Pitoyable guide au chateau. Je ramène un souvenir gratuit, ma chute sur le glacier. Méfiance du guide pakistanais, semble beaucoup mieux s'y connaitre en armes qu'en histoire locale...

Thé au Darbar Hotel. Deux hommes dansent, quelle tristesse comparé aux superbes danses de Turfan. L'Islam comme pratiqué par ici commence à me sortir des naseaux, en fait tout système qui oblitère la moitié des agents du dit-système. Confirmé par la "Pakistan Blaphemy Law (BBC 22 Aug.) Un professeur d'université condamné à mort sur dénonciation de ses étudiants...

Have a look at Hunza culture and ideology.

Jeep tour to the Glacier

Views F Landscape

Orientation F Maps

Check out the photo album.

At over 8,000 feet above sea level, on a narrow ledge between the gloomy chasm of the river and the sheer backcloth of glacier scarred rock, Hunza is like some forbidden fairy-tale garden. Vines smother neat little houses, they wind their way up the loftiest poplars and cascade down from the topmost branches. The earth is strewn with mulberries and on every flat stone a carpet of yellow apricots lies drying in the dazzling sunlight.