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The Ten Thousand Buddha Valley of Dunhuang
The history of Dunhuang began when an
Emperor of the Han Dynasty established the 'Four Prefectures' and the 'Two
Passes'. In ancient times the area was known as 'Shoal State' or 'Melon
State'. It was a caravan stop on the old silk road. Valuable art treasure of
ancient local culture buried in the rivers and mountains may be found.
Facts F
History
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Diary F
People
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 The Mogao
GrottoesThe cave temples
are like a lustrous pearl on the cliffs of mysterious Sanwei Mountain
against a background of golden sand and clear blue sky. The caves are
generally rectangular or square with recessed, decorated ceilings. The
focal point of each is a group of brightly painted statues representing
Buddha and the Bodhisattvas, Buddha's disciples. The walls and ceilings
were also plastered with layers of cement and clay and then painted with
watercolor. Large sections of the murals are made up of decorative
patterns using motifs from nature, architecture or textiles.
 The Flying Apsaras
Dunhuang Flying Apsaras are the sign of
Dunhuang art, the symbol of Mogao Grottoes art. Asparas in the Dunhuang
frescoes are dancers and musicians flying in the Buddhist skies. They
are servers to the Buddha and Sakra Devanam Indra. Dunhuang stories
The Buddha Born From Lotus is the
illustration of the Pure Land. Lotus was taken as man of noble character
because it is clean though it grows in dirty mud. But who is the
Lotus Girl?
 What is the source of
sounds from the
mountain? Why is the spring like a crescent moon? How is it that the
pool does not fill up with sand? Where does the
five-color sand come
from? For generation after generation the people of this region have
created rich imaginative tales to answer these questions. The tales in
turn have added mystery and wonder to the scenic spots of Dunhuang. |
[13 Aug. ensoleillé Jiayuguan-Dunhuang bus 380km
Dunhuang Hotel]
 Le
long de la route qui rejoint Dunhuang, nous longeons un cimetière
musulman. J'essaye de rejoindre les collines en arrière-plan for a bit
of privacy lorsqu'un scorpion beige clair surgit d'entre les rocs. Un
bon gardien des ames. J'ai compris et rebrousse chemin illico. De retour
au bus, mes pensées volent vers le tantrisme.
 Puisqu'il
ne m'est pas permis de me joindre au groupe de canadien pour profiter de
leur guide francophone (fuck the bozos), je partage les frais du guide
avec Lucy, une jeune avocate anglaise basée à Shanghai, sinophile et
fascinée (on la comprend) par les Apsaras de Dunhuang au point de
vouloir s'en faire tatouer une de retour chez Queen Mom. On se reverra
plus tard avec ses cops Brits à Kashgar.
Escalade de la montagne de sable qui
chante, en plein cagnard pour éviter les hordes. Merci Rà, grace à ton
aura incandescente, les cons se cachent au fond de leur niche à trois
étoiles. La science nous explique que si elle chante s'est parce que
lorsque le vent la caresse, il traverse du sable à très haute teneur en
silice; silice bien ordonnée...
 Achat
d'une valise soi-disant incassable. Le vendeur marche dessus pour me
convaincre de sa solidité. Il aurait du tester les attaches vu qu'elle
craquera dix jours plus tard pour cause de chargement excessif. Surf au
John's Café où un groupes d'italiens stupides et un autre groupe
d'allemand fort ennuyants m'ont précédé. |
Views F
Landscape
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Orientation F
Maps
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 The
Singing Sand MoutainAll the
visitors to Dunhuang wish to climb Singing Sand Mountain (1715m), but the ascent
is difficult. For each step forward, one slides a half step back. In
steep places they are forced to use their hands and feet. As soon as
people reach the summit, they slide off on the other side setting off a
cascade of sand that resonates with the sounds of drums and gongs,
flutes and reed pipes. And if the wind is blowing hard, the mountain
resounds with roaring echoes. It is awe inspiring.
The Crescent Moon Spring
Everyone knows that fire and water do
not mix, nor desert and clear springs, yet at the foot of Sound-Sand
Mountain both are to be found. It is like the new moon on the fifth day
of the lunar month. The crystal clear spring water is sweet and
refreshing. It has been lying in the arms of the mountain for thousands
of years.
Schools of fish live within the pool;
on its banks lush green grasses grow. Among the grasses can be found
"seven-star herb". In the glow of the setting sun, the spring water and
the mountain with its halls and pavilions add to each other's radiance. |
 After
travelling for hours towards Dunhuang, the flat, barren desert landscape
suddenly gives way to lush, green cultivated fields with mountainous
rolling sand dunes as a backdrop. The area has a certain haunting
beauty, especially at night under a star-studded sky.
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